Planting tree seedlings

Before you plant

You need to prepare the planting site. You may need to clear pest plants, especially vine weeds like Himalayan honeysuckle and groundcover weeds like tradescantia. Consider which existing plants might be worth keeping, as some can provide shelter and help your seedlings establish.

As well as clearing weeds, consider fencing off the planting site to prevent browsers from nibbling your seedlings.

Land preparation for planting trees

You need to choose the right trees for your site. Consider factors like temperature, rainfall, wind exposure, and shade.

Choose the right tree for your site

When to plant seedlings

In warmer districts, you can plant seedlings in the cooler months from late autumn through to early spring. It might be best to plant in late autumn. That way, the seedlings have an entire winter to establish before the warm, dry summer.

In cold regions, planting seedlings in late autumn is risky as they might not survive the harsh winter. Instead, wait until the last of the spring frosts pass before planting.

Storing and transporting seedlings

Storing seedlings

If you’re storing seedlings before planting, keep them out of the sun in a sheltered location. You need to water seedlings regularly and thoroughly if you’re storing them.

If you need to delay planting for an extended period, there are some things you can do to help your seedlings survive.

Dealing with planting delays

Transporting seedlings to the planting site

Before taking seedlings to the planting site, give them a thorough soaking with water. The root ball needs to be moist when you plant the seedling.

Take care transporting the seedlings. If possible, keep them out of the wind – for example, in a covered trailer. Avoid packing the seedlings too tightly to prevent damage to branches and stems.

At the planting site, store seedlings out of direct sunshine.

Planting seedlings from containers

Removing the container

Take care removing the seedling from the container or planter bag. You want to keep as much soil as possible around the roots.

If the roots have become tightly wound-up inside the container (called “root-bound”), trim away the tangled roots. Root-bound plants grow slowly and may be unstable when they mature.

Digging the hole

Get yourself a good-quality spade. A planting spade that’s designed for the job will make the task easier. Use the spade to:

1. clear any weeds or grass from the planting area
2. cut parallel slots in the ground to loosen the soil
3. dig a hole that’s wide and deep enough to comfortably fit the root ball
4. cultivate (break up) the soil on all sides of the hole so the root ball is surrounded by loose soil.

If you’re using slow-release fertiliser or water crystals, mix them with the soil in the hole now. Keep in mind that nursery-grown plants already contain slow-release fertiliser in their potting mix.

Positioning the plant

1. Place the root ball in the hole. The root ball should sit about 5 cm below the soil surface. If the root ball sits too high, it’ll lose moisture. If it sits too low, the build-up of soil around the seedling might rot the stem.
2. Replace the soil around the seedling. You can use your hands or boots to press the soil into the gap between the root ball and the sides of the hole. You want to eliminate empty pockets in the hole, so the roots are surrounded by soil.
3. Check the seedling is standing nice and straight. Use your foot to firm up the soil around the stem, ensuring the seedling is stable. The goal is to create a secure base without compacting the soil too tightly.

You won’t need to water your seedlings after planting if the root ball was already moist.

Planting small and bare-root seedlings

You can buy small “forestry-grade” seedlings with plugs of soil around the roots, or as bare-root seedlings without any soil attached. Smaller seedlings are usually cheaper, but they need extra care. For example, you must thoroughly clear the planting site of competing vegetation. If you’re using bare-root seedlings, keep them cool and moist, and plant them within a few days of delivery.

Many of the same principles for planting seedlings from containers also apply here. You need to ensure the soil and root mass are moist and plant the seedlings at the correct depth in cultivated ground. When planting smaller grade seedlings, use a spade to:

1. cut parallel slots in the ground to loosen the soil
2. displace a wedge of soil to create a narrow hole that’s wide and deep enough for the roots (this is quicker than digging out soil).

Place the seedling roots into the hole at the correct depth. For bare-root seedlings, apply a gentle upward pull on the stem while positioning the seedling. This helps to avoid root distortion. Finally, use your boot to firm up the soil around the seedling’s roots.

Improving seedling survival

There are extra steps you can take to help your seedlings. These depend on the size of your planting project and how much you’re willing to spend. You can:

• add mats or mulch around seedling stems to suppress weeds and keep moisture in the soil
• place plant guards around seedlings to shelter them from wind and reduce browsing by rabbits
• put a stake beside your plants to make them easier to find when you weed them in the coming months.

Getting your seedlings in the ground is only half the job. In the coming months, you need to:

• weed around the seedlings regularly (called “releasing”)
• keep on top of pests like rabbits and possums
• prevent livestock from getting into the planting area.

Looking after your native seedlings